Going Back

7 May

Revisiting destinations is always interesting. The first time I did that was going to Costa Rica 5 years later. Given that I had been in high school during the initial trip and had graduated from college the second time around, it wasn't surprising that I felt different, and that I saw Costa Rica differently.

But I wasn't sure what it would be like to visit Kuala Lumpur after a year had gone by. It was only a year, could I really have changed that much? Could KL?

 

The Petronas Towers? Still around.

 

The answer, it turned out, was that I personally felt very different. Seeing KL again was like reuniting with a much-loved friend. KL hadn't really changed, but I, on the other hand, had.

In the last year, I've gone from being a beginner at this whole traveling thing to a much more seasoned adventurer. I've experienced wondrous places and food. I've said goodbye to friends in South Korea and moved on to a new chapter in my life. I was broken down by theft and slowly healed to become stronger.

So from the very beginning, I felt like a new person stepping through customs. The first time, I was nervous. It was a new country, and even though I'd done my research, that seemed overwhelming. But this time, I powered to the passport control with confidence. I knew Malaysia and besides, a new country was not all that big a deal anymore.

It was thoroughly refreshing to be in a city where I didn't need to look up how to get somewhere. I wasn't hesitant before getting on the public transportation. I didn't need to worry before going into a restaurant that I couldn't decipher the menu. It made me feel like a pro, like I had come so far.

Happily, my memories of Malaysia and especially of the food were accurate and there was no disappointment there. Roti canai was still freaking delicious.

 

Also delicious: this garlic cheese naan.

 

Soon I will be seeing Italy again with new eyes – 9 years later. That should be rather interesting.

For me, revisiting KL was a happy occasion that showed me all the ways I've grown in the past year. I found that I really liked my new travel confidence and I really hope I can continue to carry it forward with me in the future.

Have you ever been back to a place you visited before?

 

Our Lagoon Adventure

6 May

On the path between East Railay and Phra Nang beach, there's a sign pointing left saying “lagoon” and “viewpoint.” If you look left, this is what you'll see:

 
An extremely steep path up some rocks. With ropes. You can see the viewpoint and lagoon on all the maps of Railay around “town.” I had also read a little about the lagoon on a guest post on The Planet D. The first time we spotted the way up, it was nearly dark so we waited until the next day.
 
 
The way up was mostly a scramble but not too difficult. The viewpoint is not far from the top and you just need to follow the signs. It's a pretty nice view. If you go the opposite way, you will soon come to a way down. This is how you get to the lagoon.
 
 
The trek down to the lagoon is rather a lot steeper than the one you'll have just come up. In places climbing down is not possible and you just have to lower yourself down on the ropes that are there. Do yourself a favor and test the ropes first – don't use any that look too frayed. Most of them seemed okay though.
 
 
Many people got to the point where you have to go steeply down and gave up and turned back. Not us, though. We were up for a true adventure.
 
 
Eventually we made it to the bottom and were greeted with the stunning sight of this gorgeous lagoon fully surrounded by steep cliffs. We stood and took it in. We may have gone back up at this point if it weren't for two Canadian sisters that we met. They had heard of a cave across the lagoon and were going to try to get to it. We decided to join them.
 
 
We were able to get to the cave fully by land by going around to the right – the first bit requires a bit of belly crawling and you have to watch out for a hole, but it's nothing too difficult. If the water were higher it might be necessary to swim to the cave, which is directly across the lagoon from the place you climb down.
 
 
Once we made it to the cave it was immediately apparent that people had been there before. There was an empty lantern, and on a shelf in the cave entrance there were mats and a mosquito net. People had also sculpted a bunch of skulls out of mud.
 
 
We went into the cave even though only one of us (one of the Canadian girls) had a flashlight. We got to a point where it starts going down and decided to turn back, especially after noticing a rather large snake crawling on the wall. I didn't think I was too afraid of snakes, but a snake in a dark cave made me panic and be less careful so I hit my head on the way out. No lasting damage, luckily.
 
 
After that we rested awhile and then made the climb up, which was really fun. We found a very cool silk cotton or kapok tree that we had a bit of a photoshoot with.
 
 
The tree even seemed to make Jeff levitate! Overall it was a really fun adventure and we sort of felt like Indiana Jones exploring new territory. It's a bit strenuous but not too terrible.
If you decide to go to the lagoon, don't go after dark or just after it rains. Wear sneakers or any shoe that's not flip flops. Be prepared to get a little muddy. Bring a flashlight or headlamp if you want to check out the cave. And enjoy!

 

Transylvania Roundup

5 May

We have now arrived in Budapest after a week exploring gorgeous Transylvania. Here's more on what we did.

Days in Transylvania: 6.5

Cities visited: 2, Braşov for 3 days and Sighişoara for 3.5 days

Days that it rained: 0

Highest temperature: 90 degrees Fahrenheit!

Castles visited: 1, Bran Castle. We wanted to see Peleş too but it was closed on the only days we were in town.

Tours taken: 1, a free tour of Braşov.

Horse carts seen: Many

Trunks full of live goats seen: 3 or 4 at a market in Sighişoara.

Transylvania is so mysterious and vampire-related in popular culture. Well, they do take advantage of the vampire thing in the souvenirs they sell. There are also lots of sites related (however loosely) to Vlad the Impaler (who did call himself Dracula sometimes – it means “son of the dragon” in old Romanian because his father was a member of a group of knights called the Order of the Dragon. The Impaler moniker was added posthumously, and rather deservedly as Vlad indeed impaled his enemies). Anyway, it's a gorgeous area with lots of forests and the Carpathian Mountains and plenty of bears.

I never thought I'd say this but I finally found a place where we stayed for too long. We should have spent one more day in Braşov and one less in Sighişoara, since we didn't have a car. Sighişoara is very small and there isn't much to do directly in town. And because it is so small there aren't bus connections with the stuff we were interested in seeing nearby. On the other hand, there are bus connections to several things around Braşov. Ideally for this region you should rent a car because a lot of the best sites are in little towns that aren't too far from the cities but are sort of hard to get to independently. Both of the towns we stayed in were rather touristy but both are lovely and worth a visit.

Some Transylvania prices:

  • Comfy double bed room at Casa Samurai in Braşov, per night: US $26.12
  • Double bed in a Couchsurfing place in Sighişoara: free!
  • Return bus ticket to Bran Castle, per person: 14 RON (US $4.26)
  • Entrance into Bran Castle, per person: 25 RON (US $7.61)
  • One ticket on the slow train from Braşov to Sighişoara: 17.2 RON (US $5.23)
  • Delicious hot dog in central Braşov: 8 RON (US $2.43)
  • Dinner for two at Ceasu' Rau, a nice Romanian restaurant in Braşov: 56 RON (US $17.04)
  • Dinner for two at Perla Pizzeria in Sighişoara, including dessert: 40 RON (US $12.17)

We did well on our budget in Transylvania because honestly we didn't do much that cost money. Food prices were similar to those in Bucharest, except inside the citadel in Sighişoara where they were rather inflated.


Have you been to Transylvania?

 

Travel Photo: Fuli, China

5 May

 

 

Gorgeous, rural Fuli, a tiny and ancient town near Yangshuo, China which we biked to.

This Month in Reading

3 May

Every month we have been rounding up the best things we read. April was another busy travel month. We started it off with surprise extra days in Antalya, then headed to Selçuk, Çanakkale, and back to Istanbul. Then we took the train to Sofia, Bulgaria where we spent a week living in a great apartment and cooking a bunch. After that it was a week in Bucharest, Romania, and a couple of days in Braşov.

Rachel’s Reads

Blogs

Books - I read 5 books this month, and for the most part I didn’t make the best reading choices…

  • American Psycho by Bret Easton Ellis – At first I found the guy’s craziness interesting. Then I got pretty bored with it.
  • The Drop by Michael Connelly – Mediocre crime thriller picked up at a hostel book exchange. Not bad in the mystery sense but I wish there was some depth to the characters.
  • Five Star Affair by Payton Lee – Have you ever wanted to read Dwight D. Eisenhower romantic fan fiction? No? Oh, then this isn’t for you.
  • The Fault in Our Stars by John Green – Finally I picked a good book! I love John Green’s Crash Course World History series on YouTube and I’ve been wanting to read his young adult fiction for a while now. This book is about cancer teens falling in love, and so it is beautiful and it will break your heart.
  • The Black Dahlia by James Ellroy – I thought this might be good… It’s hyped and everything. But it is just really boring.


Jeff’s Reads

Links

Books – I read 4 books this month.

  • The Fall of Il Rien Books 2,3 by Martha Wells – I enjoyed these more than book one. Once the series got less depressing it also got better. I would still recommend The Books of the Raksura instead if you want to read something by Martha Wells.
  • Beastly by Alex Flinn – Basically it’s a modernized teen drama version of Beauty and the Beast. I caught the movie version of it a couple months ago and decided I might as well read the book (It’s rather short). I find that the adaptation is less likely to be disappointing if you watch it first. I thought both were rather enjoyable. Recommended if you feel like an adapted fairy tale.
  • The Demolished Man by Alfred Bester – A tale of a man trying to get away with murder in a future full of telepaths. When I read classic sci-fi, I often find it fascinating to see where many of today’s science fiction pillars originated. It also generally seems a bit outdated and predictable. Outdated because they use obsolete technology and social norms. Predictable because author build on novel ideas for decades until they are rendered trite. I found this book an especially interesting read because it so clearly had a huge impact on one of my favorite TV shows, Babylon 5.

A Good View in San Francisco

2 May

It's been years since I was in San Francisco (in 2009), but I still think on it fondly. The city won me over pretty quickly with its beauty and quirky charm. A great place to go in the city to watch the fog roll in is Buena Vista Park.

All you have to do is climb a whole bunch of stairs.

 
San Francisco is really hilly, and this is one of the hills to climb for a nice, tree-filled park with good views over the city.
 

SF's business district

Jeff at the top of the hill.

 

You can even bring your cute bulldog!

 

The flowers were nice too.

Looking out over the Bay.

 

Saint Ignatius Church

 

More cute dogs!

 

 

 

The fog comes in...

 

It's cool that you can watch it covering the city.

 

San Francisco is a great place full of green spaces. Jeff and I had a great time climbing up to the top of Buena Vista Park and seeing the city from a different point of view.

Have you been to San Francisco?

Delicious Inspiration for Today

1 May

 

 

Homemade macaroni and cheese, made by Rachel.

15 Years of Webcomics (Almost)

30 Apr

Sometime towards the end of elementary school I started reading online comics. Almost fifteen years later I’ve seen death, loss, and the impossible, given life. The highest highs and the lowest lows have been mine to savor or discard on a whim; only to come crawling back like a supplicant to my tempestuous lover. I’ve washed up on the dark shores of ennui and viewed startling vistas just barely out of my grasp. I’ve done it all. And then I’ve done it all again. Once per day.
Come with me intrepid explorers of the mind as we probe the limits of creativity. I shall regale you with tales of tales, a metastory if you will. Where we’re going you’re going to need an attention span of a few more minutes. I present to you: Some webcomics I read.

  • Schlock Mercenary – Space mercenaries go on various adventures which substantially alter the political and economic climate of the galaxy. The main character is a nearly indestructible amorphous fluid. This comic has been going on for nearly 13 years and I’ve been reading it since close to the beginning. As far as I am aware, Howard Tayler hasn’t missed a single day of full color strips, even when his drawing bones were injured. There are some comics I find funnier, and some that I find more exciting, but none that are more professional and consistently good quality.
  • Nedroid – It’s infrequently updated because, as I understand it, Anthony Clark has other priorities and just kinda does a comic when he feels like it. But I love it so much. Everything out of his pen appeals to my sense of humor exquisitely. I follow his tumblr too, just so I can get another little hit of his random doodles. Now that’s devotion!
  • Questionable Content – This is one of the best slice of life comics out there. I like the art style, but it’s really the stories and relatable characters that make me anticipate new comics. It updates with large full color strips 5 days a week and only puts in guest comics or filler a few times a year.
  • Penny Arcade – This is another one of the webcomic behemoths out there and another comic that I’ve been following for close to 15 years. They update three times a week like clockwork with three full color panels. The prime focus is on video games and despite not understanding two thirds of the references, it’s consistently hilarious. I also use it as a news source to keep me apprised of the most notable occurrences in video game news. The two creators make a living off the strip for themselves and, I believe, a small staff and they created a very successful charity and an expo that attracts over 70,000 people.
  • XKCD – I see this stick figure comic shared more than any other so you might already know about it. It largely consists of one off jokes about advanced academic topics and a variety of nerd subcultures with an occasional impressive infographic thrown in. If you follow up on some of the jokes, you can often learn something too.

Comics I No Longer Read
For every comic I follow now, there are probably five that have gone by the wayside. There are all sorts of reasons I stopped though and many of these comics are worth a read. Here are some of the noteworthy ones.

  • Sluggy Freelance – This was my first webcomic and I was a rabid fan of it for most of my webcomic reading career. What happened? Several years ago there was a story arc that didn’t interest me that much and the comic just kinda fell off my radar. I imagine that someday I’ll go back and pick it up again though.
  • Dragon Tails – For years Tim Dawson wrote and drew one of my favorite comics. Sometime around 2004 he went from posting comics every day to only a few times a year. The last comic was in 2010.
  • Girls With Slingshots – I read the entire archives in the span of a few days and had only been following the regular updates for a few months when I decided to transfer all my regularly updated sites to an RSS feed. I couldn’t find an RSS feed for this comic so I just stopped reading it.
  • Megatokyo – Here’s a comic that aggravated me and has never been forgiven. It was a comic I followed in the early years that updated a few times a week. This comic is the whole reason I love comics with reliable update schedules so much. Megatokyo, which has a slow moving plot to begin with, would have an emergency ‘I don’t feel like drawing’ filler fully half the time.  I stopped reading when I could stand it no longer.
  • Narbonic - This was a really great comic about mad scientists. I only stopped reading it because it finished all it’s plot lines and ended. Read it!

What webcomics do you read?

Something Beautiful in Hanoi

29 Apr

As I mentioned in the Hanoi Roundup that I never posted, and probably never will, because I deleted it forever, we actually did go to a couple of tourist attractions in Hanoi. The first two of our initially planned 5 days there were taken up by me over-occupying the bathroom in our hostel dorm room, but after that, we had a couple of days to see the sights.

 

 

The first place we went was to the lovely Temple of Literature. This Confucian temple, built in 1070, also played host to Vietnam's first university, the Imperial Academy. It also has the rare distinction of being one of the only old buildings in Hanoi not destroyed by various wars or by the French.

 

 
The Temple of Literature is immediately likable because it is an oasis of calm in what is undeniably a hectic city.
 

 

During our mid-week visit there were few tourists (and most of them were Vietnamese or Korean). We were able to enjoy the serene beauty of the place by ourselves.
 
 

 

 

 

 
 
These statues are turtles with steles (inscribed stone tablets) listing the names and birthplaces of 1307 graduates of the triennial royal exams. The turtle is one of the four holy animal symbols of Vietnam – the other three are the dragon, the unicorn, and the phoenix. I have to admit, Vietnam, you have pretty cool spirit animals.
 

 

 
 
The dragon, another of Vietnam's animal symbols, makes an appearance.
 
 
 
 
 
The Temple of Literature is well worth a visit for historical and cultural reasons. It is also always wonderful to see a place devoted to learning. And in times of trouble, like my later ones in the city, it was something to look back on and remember that even in chaos, there can be beauty.
Visiting the Temple of Literature will cost you 10,000 dong or about US $0.50. It's located about 2 kilometers west of Hoan Kiem Lake, which was walking distance for us, but if it's too far for you, you can always take a motorbike taxi.

 

Bucharest Roundup

28 Apr

Today we took the train from Bucharest to Braşov. One thing to remember about Bucharest is that it's not Budapest, though they are frequently mixed up. Here's what we did there.

Days in Bucharest: 7.5

Days that it rained: 0. The weather was sunny and warm the whole time.

Stairs to our 8th floor apartment: 128. Luckily, there was an elevator, but it was old and kind of sketchy.

Tours taken: 1, by Rachel, and 2 by Jeff. We both took the Guided Bucharest free tour, and Jeff took an additional Communist Bucharest tour with the same company.

Courses in our molecular gastronomy dinner: 19 – most were just one spoonful.

Symphonic recitals attended: 1, at the Atheneum.

Number of 900-gram yogurt buckets we bought: 2, for tasty yogurt muesli bowls.

Number of parks visited: 6

 

Herastrau Park

 

Bucharest is a big eastern European city that yearns to be like the cities of Western Europe. It is changing rapidly, and still discovering itself after the fall of communism in 1989. We imagine if we visit in ten years, it will be totally different. Maybe better, but maybe not. We liked the abundant parks but didn't like that restaurants were difficult to find.

Some Bucharest prices:

  • Shabby bedroom in a Soviet-era apartment block, per night: US $15
  • One ride on the metro: 2 RON (US $0.60). One ride on the bus is 2.10 RON.
  • 7-day unlimited metro pass: 20 RON (US $6.00) – very worth it if you're staying for a week!
  • One evening movie ticket at Bucharest Mall: 27.30 RON (US $7.93)
  • Entry to the Village Museum, per person: 10 RON (US $3.33)
  • One ticket to a small chamber recital at the Atheneum: 30 RON (US $8.71)
  • Lunch at Caru' cu Bere, Bucharest's most famous restaurant, for two: 64 RON (US $18.58)
  • Dinner for two at the Artist, a molecular gastronomy restaurant: 303 RON (US $87.95)

 

One thing that was unusually expensive in Bucharest was bottled water at restaurants. A large bottle was usually around $3.60. Tap water is safe to drink so you are best off bringing around your own water bottle. Food can be cheaper if you eat from the hot dog carts and kebab stands, but the price of Caru' cu Bere is pretty indicative of prices in the old city. It's a great place to do some of the things you might want to do in Western Europe without spending all your money, as it's pretty affordable – or at least now before it has changed to the Euro.

Have you been to Bucharest?

 

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